Bicycle Garden Plow home made

Worth It - Gardening Tip

Every year I try to plant a few T. acuminata (these from Brent and Beckys) in the front yard. They’re expensive as tulips go—about 4-5 bucks a bulb—and are considered heirloom. Most of the bulb experts seem to think they are an older hybrid, not a wild tulip, but their exact origins are a bit murky. Anna Pavord is a fan; she writes about them as being “spidery and mad.” Brent and Beckys thinks they date to 1813; Old House Gardens sees them as a survivor of the c. 1700s thin-petal tulip craze.

And not only are they expensive, they’re fussy. I put 5 in every year, but for whatever reason, they often fail to emerge. It’s a very exciting event when they do. This year’s are quite tall—I would say about 30”.

Moulin Rouge from Longfield Gardens

Spring does not exist without tulips as far as I’m concerned. Indeed, when winter transitions directly into summer, as it did this year, I need tulips to help me pretend that spring happened.

http://gardenrant.com/2014/05/worth-it.html

"Small Garden Design"

WORDS JERRY COLEBY-WILLIAMS

In the heart of Brisbane lies a magical garden filled with luscious plants and stunning features.

Many would believe that designing a small garden is a simple affair. In reality, the smaller the space the more every centimetre counts. Award-winning garden designer, Phillip O’Malley explains: “When you’re designing a large garden you can see certain elements from a distance. Space allows whimsy. And you can overlook a few weeds. But designing a small space puts you right in the fishbowl. Nothing is hidden. The bones must be strong and everything well-planned.”

*Check out our small garden design gallery*

One garden at Tarragindi, in suburban south Brisbane, bears all the hallmarks of Phillip O’Malley’s beliefs. But there’s much more to it than good design. It’s perfect for a garden-lover and clearly exudes ‘soul’. Eight years ago this 415 square metre property was a garden from hell – hot, exposed and barren. Worse than a car park, this almost all-lawn garden needed lots of regular work to keep it contained.

Garden harmony

We see so many instant garden makeovers we forget that the true test of good design is if it still looks as good three years later. So what went right in this garden? In a word: harmony. There’s a balance between the necessities of practical gardening and the pleasure to be gained by being in it, whatever the season. Well-placed plants have matured without overcrowding each other, and wherever you stand there’s a view, a pattern or a setting to engage the mind and the senses.

Here the whole is truly greater than the sum of the individual parts. The garden is as pleasurable to work in as it is welcoming after a hard day’s work. Constructed features, such as paving and retaining walls, are not only functional and well-built, they’re also stimulating to the eye. The garden has stood the test of time, and developed a soul, something Phillip is determined to imbue in every garden he plans.

Magic and drama

The combined effects of healthy plants and colour, ever-changing patterns of welcome shade and pools of sunlight combine with fragrance and the sound of water to work magic. The pavilion creates an invitingly cool, shady, restful space for entertaining and enjoying the garden whatever the weather, while lawn provides a small space for playful kids – and somewhere to put a wheelbarrow when gardening. But the most enticing feature in this garden has been created using the simplest of materials and design.

White concrete pavers have been laid through the centre of a long, turfed area. Apart from making the garden seem larger, the pavers bring this formal area to life. The same pavers have been laid in a chequerboard fashion creating a dramatic entrance to the oriental-inspired pavilion. Here the pavers are interplanted with low-growing clumping grass, which also act to break up reflected heat and light from intense summer sunshine. The pavers shed rain onto the grass, reducing the need for watering. Together they work to create a vibrant space that glows in cloudy or sunny weather.

Standout plants

All the plants growing at Tarragindi are suited to a frost-free, coastal climate where some shelter is available. And few need much water or fussing over to look great. Plants have been placed together to create a sense of theatre. Swathes of liriope grow beneath clumps of clivia, and the patterned leaves ofCalathea zebrina highlight a rustic bench.

Everywhere contrasts abound: waterlily flowers add a tranquil, cool charm to formal pools, their reflections broken by rippling water. Cordylines with beetroot-coloured leaves add zest and warmth through winter. And the border plants spilling over lawn edges have a softening effect, uniting two distinct garden features.

• Blue ginger (Dichorisandra thyrsiflora) Forming a tight upright clump 1.2m high, blue ginger flowers from summer to autumn in the subtropics. It grows best in semi-shade. Another bonus is it attracts native blue-banded bees.
• Mussaenda (Mussaenda frondosa) In Perth and Sydney it’s autumn-flowering and winter deciduous. In the tropics it’s evergreen, flowering from summer into winter. It needs full sun and compost-rich soil and is suitable for growing in containers.
• Macarthur palm (Ptychosperma macarthurii) This moderately fast-growing, sun-loving, native clumping palm is best suited to coastal subtropical and tropical climates. It looks wonderful in containers and as a feature in lawns with its beautiful pendant bunches of fruit. Water regularly in drought.
• Spider lily (Hymenocallis littoralis) This is a stunning sight in full flower. For best results give this drought-tolerant, clumping lily well-composted soil in either full sun or part shade. It’s expensive to buy, but can be easily propagated each spring.
• Syzygium paniculatum ‘Elite’ This dwarf, native lillypilly is sometimes sold as ‘Aussie Compact’. It has a neat, slender, upright habit, which lends itself to many uses, including hedging, topiary,  containers or as a courtyard tree. It is best suited to warm temperate and subtropical climates.
• Clumping temple grass (Zoysia tenuifolia) With a tufted, mossy appearance, temple grass is a good informal alternative to turf. Sun- and shade-tolerant, it may lose its colour during winter when grown in areas as far south as Sydney. Grow it in swathes to maximise its impact.
• Star fruit (Averrhoa carambola) This decorative tree is usually grown for its refreshingly tart summer fruit. It is deciduous in winter and slowly reaches 9m tall. Its broad canopy provides good shade and its leaves, which fold at night, are curious in their own right.

http://www.homelife.com.au/gardening/beautiful+gardens/small+garden+design,15669

Landscape Design Tips

Design a Showy Flowerbed with These 5 Easy-Care Perennials

Source: http://www.gardendesign.com/

Costa Farms gardening expert, Justin Hancock shares valuable design tips for selecting and planting perennials and ideal companion plants.  Because they come back year after year, require little watering, are long-blooming, and offer a variety of textures, shapes and colors, Hancock says perennials are the backbone of any beautiful garden. He suggests starting with these five beautiful, easy-care perennials to instantly transform any garden.

Shade-Loving Hostas

Have a shady backyard? That doesn’t mean you can’t have a colorful garden! Hostas come in an almost limitless selection of sizes, shapes and colors. In fact, there are so many hosta varieties to choose from that it’s possible to create an entire garden with just this one type of plant. Hostas also show off gorgeous flower spikes in pink, lavender or white, and some even have a sweet fragrance.

Shade-Loving | Zone: 3-10| Bloom Time: Mid to late summer

Companion Plant: Astilbe
Astilbe's greatest attribute is how it will provide contrast in the leaf structure when paired with hostas. Astilbe has a lacy leaf that plays well with the coarse bold hosta leaf.

Design Tip:
Try to mix different varieties of hostas together. The transitions between large, medium, and small varieties provide an intriguing and subtle play of color and texture.  A mix of hostas allows you to stay within the same theme for your garden, yet is more impactful than just a bed full of the same color and variety.

Low-Maintenance RudbeckiaSecond on Hancock’s list is rudbeckia, also known as Black-eyed Susan. It develops wave after wave of cheerful daisy-like blooms from early summer to fall. Most varieties grow around 2 feet tall and are great cut for bouquets. Because rudbeckias are native to the central and eastern parts of the United States, they are also naturally drought and insect resistant.

Sun-Loving |Zone: 3-10| Bloom Time: Late summer to fall

Companion Plant: Aster
Rudbeckia gives a brilliant gold and aster comes in stunning shades of blue and purple. You can’t go wrong combining gold with blue or purple. Plus, aster is fantastic for attracting butterflies.

Design Tip:
The loose and informal look of rudbeckia makes an ideal plant for cottage style gardens. If you don’t want the loose and informal look, then do a mass planting of rudbeckia. The eye will be paying more attention to the bold color and won’t notice the habit as much.

Cheery CoreopsisWith a long bloom time and generally trouble-free nature, coreopsis is an easy-to-grow perennial. It stands up to a little neglect when it comes to water and fertilizer, making it extremely low maintenance. A native prairie plant, this bright sunny-yellow flower is hard to miss even on a dreary day. Most coreopsis grow about 18 inches tall and produce single or double flowers.

Sun-Loving |Zone: 4-9 |Bloom Time: early to late summer

Companion Plant: Salvia
Salvia has an upright, spikey texture and coreopsis is more nicely mounded which creates great interplay in the form. Plus, both are butterfly magnets.

Design Tip:
Because coreopsis is relatively low, it is fun to use at a border as an edging plant.

Sedums with Nectar-Rich Blooms
Another easy-care perennial is sedum. Hancock describes them as the “workhorses of perennials.” Almost impervious to heat, drought, and disease, sedums get bigger and better each year. Most sedums bloom in late summer and fall, but the lush greenery looks healthy all season long. Their nectar-rich blooms are a favorite with butterflies, bees and other pollinators.

Sun-Loving |Zone: 4-9 |Bloom Time: Mid-summer

Companion Plant: Thyme
Another sun-loving ground cover, Thyme has fine, pretty leaves which contrast nicely with the bolder, fleshier leaf of sedum. Both are great for creating a carpet of color.

Design Tip:
Sedums perform well in rock gardens and are ideal for softening hot, dry spaces. For a great effect, plant creeping varieties in rock walls where they can cascade down.

Butterfly-Attracting Coneflower
Coneflower, also called Echinacea, is a favorite with the butterflies. Choose from double-and triple-flowering varieties and colors that include white, raspberry, orange and yellow. Echinacea generally grow 3 feet tall and bloom from early summer through fall. They also make excellent cut flowers.

Sun-Loving |Zone: 3-8 |Bloom Time: Midsummer thru late summer

Companion Plant: Russian Sage
Also heat and drought tolerant, Russian sage’s silvery foliage make a nice backdrop to pink and purple blooms. Because it is a late summer/fall bloomer, you can extend the season of your flowerbed by enjoying two shows of color as the coneflower and the Russian sage will bloom one after the other.

Design Tip:
Because coneflower does not have the prettiest foliage, combine it with bulkier plants to help hide the leaves so the flowers rise up.

Burke's Backyard, Adding Organic Matter to Soil

Adding Organic Matter to Soil

Photo: www.earthrenew.com

Source: http://www.burkesbackyard.com.au

The worst problem facing gardeners in Australia today is that when soils dry out, they can become water repellent, or hydrophobic. When this happens, water just runs off instead of soaking into the soil. Don showed an example of a water repellent soil and explained how to beat this problem.

What causes hydrophobia?

Hydrophobia usually occurs in sandy soils and often it is caused by mulches. When uncomposted mulch sits on the surface of the ground, waxy, oily material leaves that mulch as it breaks down and coats each individual grain in the soil. When the soil dries out and you try to rewet it, the waxy, oily coating on the grains won't let the water back in and the soil stays dry.

If you took that same mulch and put it into a compost heap, micro-organisms such as bacteria and fungi would break down the waxy and oily material along with the organic matter. As well, the remnants of organic matter that you get at the end of composting actually aid the soil to form tiny little cracks that allow water to penetrate - drying out is never really an issue and the soil always rewets. So organic material used as a mulch causes the problem, but solves the problem when used as a compost.

Fixing a water repellent soil

1. Don dug some highly composted material into the hydrophobic soil. This will cause an explosion in the population of microbes in the soil. Microbes produce sticky secretions and humus, bridging the gaps between mineral particles or groups of mineral particles and binding them into crumbs, or aggregates.

2. After planting out the area with drought-hardy plants such as kangaroo paws, Don applied a mulch of less mature compost, to continue the food supply to the micro-organisms.

3. Finally, Wettasoil was applied using a hose end applicator. (Note:wetting agents only work on sandy soils. They are unlikely to improve heavier soils.) Don recommended applying a wetting agent to problem areas two to four times a year, during dry periods.