Showing posts with label gardeners. Show all posts
Showing posts with label gardeners. Show all posts

Wednesday, 11 June 2014

"Small Garden Design"

Small garden design
In the heart of Brisbane lies a magical garden filled with luscious plants and stunning features.
Many would believe that designing a small garden is a simple affair. In reality, the smaller the space the more every centimetre counts. Award-winning garden designer, Phillip O’Malley explains: “When you’re designing a large garden you can see certain elements from a distance. Space allows whimsy. And you can overlook a few weeds. But designing a small space puts you right in the fishbowl. Nothing is hidden. The bones must be strong and everything well-planned.”

*Check out our small garden design gallery*

One garden at Tarragindi, in suburban south Brisbane, bears all the hallmarks of Phillip O’Malley’s beliefs. But there’s much more to it than good design. It’s perfect for a garden-lover and clearly exudes ‘soul’. Eight years ago this 415 square metre property was a garden from hell – hot, exposed and barren. Worse than a car park, this almost all-lawn garden needed lots of regular work to keep it contained.
Garden harmony

Garden harmony

We see so many instant garden makeovers we forget that the true test of good design is if it still looks as good three years later. So what went right in this garden? In a word: harmony. There’s a balance between the necessities of practical gardening and the pleasure to be gained by being in it, whatever the season. Well-placed plants have matured without overcrowding each other, and wherever you stand there’s a view, a pattern or a setting to engage the mind and the senses.
Here the whole is truly greater than the sum of the individual parts. The garden is as pleasurable to work in as it is welcoming after a hard day’s work. Constructed features, such as paving and retaining walls, are not only functional and well-built, they’re also stimulating to the eye. The garden has stood the test of time, and developed a soul, something Phillip is determined to imbue in every garden he plans.

Magic and drama

The combined effects of healthy plants and colour, ever-changing patterns of welcome shade and pools of sunlight combine with fragrance and the sound of water to work magic. The pavilion creates an invitingly cool, shady, restful space for entertaining and enjoying the garden whatever the weather, while lawn provides a small space for playful kids – and somewhere to put a wheelbarrow when gardening. But the most enticing feature in this garden has been created using the simplest of materials and design.
White concrete pavers have been laid through the centre of a long, turfed area. Apart from making the garden seem larger, the pavers bring this formal area to life. The same pavers have been laid in a chequerboard fashion creating a dramatic entrance to the oriental-inspired pavilion. Here the pavers are interplanted with low-growing clumping grass, which also act to break up reflected heat and light from intense summer sunshine. The pavers shed rain onto the grass, reducing the need for watering. Together they work to create a vibrant space that glows in cloudy or sunny weather.
Standout plants

Standout plants

All the plants growing at Tarragindi are suited to a frost-free, coastal climate where some shelter is available. And few need much water or fussing over to look great. Plants have been placed together to create a sense of theatre. Swathes of liriope grow beneath clumps of clivia, and the patterned leaves ofCalathea zebrina highlight a rustic bench.
Everywhere contrasts abound: waterlily flowers add a tranquil, cool charm to formal pools, their reflections broken by rippling water. Cordylines with beetroot-coloured leaves add zest and warmth through winter. And the border plants spilling over lawn edges have a softening effect, uniting two distinct garden features.

  • Blue ginger (Dichorisandra thyrsiflora) Forming a tight upright clump 1.2m high, blue ginger flowers from summer to autumn in the subtropics. It grows best in semi-shade. Another bonus is it attracts native blue-banded bees.
  • Mussaenda (Mussaenda frondosa) In Perth and Sydney it’s autumn-flowering and winter deciduous. In the tropics it’s evergreen, flowering from summer into winter. It needs full sun and compost-rich soil and is suitable for growing in containers.
  • Macarthur palm (Ptychosperma macarthurii) This moderately fast-growing, sun-loving, native clumping palm is best suited to coastal subtropical and tropical climates. It looks wonderful in containers and as a feature in lawns with its beautiful pendant bunches of fruit. Water regularly in drought.
  • Spider lily (Hymenocallis littoralis) This is a stunning sight in full flower. For best results give this drought-tolerant, clumping lily well-composted soil in either full sun or part shade. It’s expensive to buy, but can be easily propagated each spring.
  • Syzygium paniculatum ‘Elite’ This dwarf, native lillypilly is sometimes sold as ‘Aussie Compact’. It has a neat, slender, upright habit, which lends itself to many uses, including hedging, topiary,  containers or as a courtyard tree. It is best suited to warm temperate and subtropical climates.
  • Clumping temple grass (Zoysia tenuifolia) With a tufted, mossy appearance, temple grass is a good informal alternative to turf. Sun- and shade-tolerant, it may lose its colour during winter when grown in areas as far south as Sydney. Grow it in swathes to maximise its impact.
  • Star fruit (Averrhoa carambola) This decorative tree is usually grown for its refreshingly tart summer fruit. It is deciduous in winter and slowly reaches 9m tall. Its broad canopy provides good shade and its leaves, which fold at night, are curious in their own right.

Saturday, 31 May 2014

Adding Organic Matter to Soil

Photo: www.earthrenew.com

Source: http://www.burkesbackyard.com.au

The worst problem facing gardeners in Australia today is that when soils dry out, they can become water repellent, or hydrophobic. When this happens, water just runs off instead of soaking into the soil. Don showed an example of a water repellent soil and explained how to beat this problem.

What causes hydrophobia?

Hydrophobia usually occurs in sandy soils and often it is caused by mulches. When uncomposted mulch sits on the surface of the ground, waxy, oily material leaves that mulch as it breaks down and coats each individual grain in the soil. When the soil dries out and you try to rewet it, the waxy, oily coating on the grains won't let the water back in and the soil stays dry.

If you took that same mulch and put it into a compost heap, micro-organisms such as bacteria and fungi would break down the waxy and oily material along with the organic matter. As well, the remnants of organic matter that you get at the end of composting actually aid the soil to form tiny little cracks that allow water to penetrate - drying out is never really an issue and the soil always rewets. So organic material used as a mulch causes the problem, but solves the problem when used as a compost.

Fixing a water repellent soil

1. Don dug some highly composted material into the hydrophobic soil. This will cause an explosion in the population of microbes in the soil. Microbes produce sticky secretions and humus, bridging the gaps between mineral particles or groups of mineral particles and binding them into crumbs, or aggregates.

2. After planting out the area with drought-hardy plants such as kangaroo paws, Don applied a mulch of less mature compost, to continue the food supply to the micro-organisms.

3. Finally, Wettasoil was applied using a hose end applicator. (Note:wetting agents only work on sandy soils. They are unlikely to improve heavier soils.) Don recommended applying a wetting agent to problem areas two to four times a year, during dry periods.