Wednesday 31 July 2013

What Is Aquaponics?

Aquaponics is a relatively new approach to food production that cultivates fish and plants in a symbiotic relationship. The OrganicNation.tv crew traveled to Flanagan, Illinois where Myles Harston of AquaRanch Industries has been working with aquaponics 1992. At his innovative facility, Myles grows tilapia and a wide variety of organic vegetables including lettuce, kale, chard, herbs, tomatoes, and hot peppers.





Tuesday 30 July 2013

Pruning Plants and Bushes

Any overgrown, or struggling plant will benefit from a little pruning. Even a healthy plant benefits by a trimming from time to time. It doesn't matter whether it's a tree or a shrub, a bush, flowers, or your vegetable plants. They all benefit by pruning and trimming.

Pruning makes your plant look better and feel better too! It allows the plant's "support system" to send vital energy and nutrients a smaller area and to newer, more vigorous growth. The result - a lusher, healthier, and better looking plant!





There are several reasons to prune plants:
  • To remove dead, weak, or unsightly branches.
  • To re-invigorate plant growth...new leaves and branches grow faster.
  • To reshape the plant into a more desirable shape.
  • To produce denser, bushier appearance.
  • To thin out growth, providing more air circulation and light.
  • To limit plant size.

How and What to Prune:

Dead, dying and unsightly limbs and branches
Inspect your plants regularly. Remove any branches or stems that fit this category right away, and at any time of year. They are only sapping plant energy, and are unsightly in appearance. Cut away to either a branch or stem, or to where live, healthy growth exists.

Pruning Branches
Use a sharp pruner or pruning saw. Cut the branch as close to the main stem or trunk as possible. Cut parallel to the trunk. If the branch is big and you are using a saw, begin with a small slit from the bottom side of the branch. Then, go to the top of the branch and begin sawing. This will minimize the tearing of additional bark, if the branch breaks and falls while cutting.

Thinning thick bushes and plants
Remove any thin and spindly stems right down to the ground, or base of the plant. Remove older branches to promote new growth, again right to the base of the plant. As a rule of thumb, when thinning bushes, remove no more than 1/4 to 1/3 of the stems a year.

Pruning transplants
When pruning transplants, the rule of thumb is to trim off 1/3 of the plant before you move it. After transplanting, your plant focuses upon re-growing and repairing it's root system. The remaining roots will have less plant to support. It will also result in a bushier plant later on.


Saturday 27 July 2013

How to Grow Herbs in Containers for Flavour & Fragrance


Herbs grown in containers are ideal for windowsills, patios and balconies where the enthusiastic cook can have them close to hand. Not only are herbs useful for flavouring food but they can also look beautiful too when they come into flower.  Chives produce flowers like pom-poms on long straight stems in pale lilac or white, rosemary produces small flowers which present in shades of white, pinkish-purple and blue whilst the flowers of thyme are also small and pinkish-purple.

It's best to do some research before selecting a planter for your herbs. For instance, how tall is the herb likely to grow? If it's tall-growing like fennel or some varieties of rosemary you'll want a big pot so that your herb won't topple over in strong winds. Also, it helps if you can find out about the type of roots the herb has. Do they stay fairly close to the surface of the soil of do they like to go deep?

Additionally, when planting herbs, it's important to use containers that drain well since herbs don't like to sit in wet soil. This is where putting a few stones in the bottom of the pots before adding the compost will be a great help along with ensuring the containers have their own drainage holes; that is unless you are putting a smaller potted plant into a larger container rather than putting the plant directly into a large container.

Beginners to herb gardening might find it easier to start with plug plants rather than trying to grow herbs from seed.  When planting plug plants use a quality compost to get your herbs off to a good start. An alternative is to buy pots of fresh herbs from your local supermarket if you don't live near a garden centre.  Great success can be had with this kind of herb growing by planting supermarket-bought pots of basil, coriander and parsley straight into larger pots in the garden or even into a small garden bed near the back door. Parsley in particular, seems to grow best in a slightly damp, almost shaded area. With only just a little sun, these herbs have been seen to flourish right through the summer until early November provided there have been no early frosts.

Since container plants dry out quickly especially in hot weather you'll need to ensure they are watered regularly depending on what each herb prefers. If you are going to group herbs together in one pot, it's best to put together those that need the same kinds of growing conditions.  You will lose plants if plants requiring little water are planted with those requiring regular watering.

One of the many benefits of growing herbs in containers is that they can be moved around to suit the weather conditions and the position of the sun. The small to medium size containers can be kept on wheeled plant holders, which can make moving them easier especially for the not-so-young.  In sub-zero temperatures container grown herbs can even be brought off the patio or balcony indoors if there is no heated greenhouse or conservatory available.

Even if you are someone who cooks infrequently, you can still enjoy the beauty, fragrance and colour of your own herbs and some herbs like mint, can be used for making refreshing summer drinks. Most herbs are really easy to grow and maintain, and being a herb grower is one of the simplest and most satisfying ways of gardening.

Friday 26 July 2013

Growing & Enjoying Annual Flowers

Nothing links us more to nature than meandering through a well-tended garden carpeted with flowers that are a feast for the eyes. Annual flowers provide a rich display for most of the summer and into the early autumn and many of them are also suitable for cutting and displaying indoors.

Annuals, in their numberless colors and shades, arrive at maturity, bloom, produce seed, and die in one season. Many hardy annuals such as candytuft, phlox drummondii, and the beautifully scented sweet alyssum, and sweet peas etc., can be sown in August and September for spring flowering, and require little or no protection from frost. The seed of hardy annual garden flowers can also be sown thinly outdoors during March, April, or May in fine soil, covering them slightly as very small seeds need just a light covering of seed compost over them. Planting small seeds too deeply will result in many of them being lost. When the plants are large enough to handle, they need to be thinned out to let them to develop fully. In this way strong and sturdy plants are produced and their flowering properties enhanced.

The more tender half-hardy annuals are best sown in seed trays 2 or 3 in. deep during February and March, and placed in a greenhouse at a temperature of about 60 degrees. The seed tray should be nearly filled with equal parts of potting compost and coarse silver sand, thoroughly mixed, and have holes at the bottom of the tray for drainage. The seeds need only be sown thinly and evenly over the soil and covered very lightly.

Very small seeds, such as lobelia and musk, shouldn't be covered by compost but a sheet of glass over the seed tray will help them, as it keeps the moisture in the compost from evaporating too quickly. If watering becomes necessary, care must be taken so that the seeds are not washed out just as they are developing their tender roots.

As soon as the young plants appear, remove the glass and place them near the light, where gentle ventilation can be given to them to prevent long and straggly growth of their stems. They should then be hardened off gradually, but not planted out until the weather is favourable i.e. the frosts have passed. Seed can also be sown in a cold frame in April, or in the open border during May; or the plants can be raised in the windows of a sitting-room or conservatory.

Very tender annuals need to be sown in a rather stronger heat than is necessary for half-hardy varieties. As soon as they are large enough to be moved, they can be prick them off into small pots, gradually potting them on into larger sizes until the flowering size is reached.

It's useful to know in advance of doing any transplanting, that most annual flowers need plenty of room in which to grow. Most will take kindly to transplanting into their final flowering spots.  Exceptions include those that have taproots like mignonette, larkspurs and poppies. These will not respond well to having their roots disturbed.

Annuals provide us with a wonderful assortment of brilliant flowers: asters, the larkspur, and the profusely blooming petunias which are ideal for summer hanging baskets, plus portulaccas, and zinnias to name but a few. And because they can be grown in almost any type of soil provided it's well-drained, and need only a reasonably sunny spot to flourish, they are justifiably the most widely grown of all flowers.




Thursday 18 July 2013

Building a Cubby House Tee Pee Style


Watch the video via the link attached below where Jason will show you how to build the kids their very own cubby house for next to nothing. The construction is dead simple and dirt cheap and best of all this is one cubby house will look great in your garden.  http://bcove.me/k3k5233p