Aquaponics is a relatively new approach to food production that
cultivates fish and plants in a symbiotic relationship. The OrganicNation.tv
crew traveled to Flanagan, Illinois where Myles Harston of AquaRanch Industries
has been working with aquaponics 1992. At his innovative facility, Myles grows
tilapia and a wide variety of organic vegetables including lettuce, kale,
chard, herbs, tomatoes, and hot peppers.
Wednesday, 31 July 2013
Tuesday, 30 July 2013
Pruning Plants and Bushes
Any overgrown, or struggling plant will benefit from a little
pruning. Even a healthy plant benefits by a trimming from time to time. It
doesn't matter whether it's a tree or a shrub, a bush, flowers, or your
vegetable plants. They all benefit by pruning and trimming.
Pruning makes your plant look better and feel better too! It allows
the plant's "support system" to send vital energy and nutrients a
smaller area and to newer, more vigorous growth. The result - a lusher,
healthier, and better looking plant!
There are several reasons to prune plants:
- To remove dead, weak, or unsightly branches.
- To re-invigorate plant growth...new leaves and branches grow faster.
- To reshape the plant into a more desirable shape.
- To produce denser, bushier appearance.
- To thin out growth, providing more air circulation and light.
- To limit plant size.
How and What to Prune:
Dead, dying and unsightly
limbs and branches
Inspect your plants regularly. Remove any branches or stems that fit
this category right away, and at any time of year. They are only sapping plant
energy, and are unsightly in appearance. Cut away to either a branch or stem,
or to where live, healthy growth exists.
Pruning Branches
Use a sharp pruner or pruning saw. Cut the branch as close to the
main stem or trunk as possible. Cut parallel to the trunk. If the branch is big
and you are using a saw, begin with a small slit from the bottom side of the
branch. Then, go to the top of the branch and begin sawing. This will minimize
the tearing of additional bark, if the branch breaks and falls while cutting.
Thinning thick bushes and
plants
Remove any thin and spindly stems right down to the ground, or base
of the plant. Remove older branches to promote new growth, again right to the
base of the plant. As a rule of thumb, when thinning bushes, remove no more
than 1/4 to 1/3 of the stems a year.
Pruning transplants
When pruning transplants, the rule of thumb is to trim off 1/3 of
the plant before you move it. After transplanting, your plant focuses upon re-growing
and repairing it's root system. The remaining roots will have less plant to
support. It will also result in a bushier plant later on.
Saturday, 27 July 2013
How to Grow Herbs in Containers for Flavour & Fragrance
Herbs grown in containers are ideal for
windowsills, patios and balconies where the enthusiastic cook can have them
close to hand. Not only are herbs useful for flavouring food but they can also
look beautiful too when they come into flower.
Chives produce flowers like pom-poms on long straight stems in pale
lilac or white, rosemary produces small flowers which present in shades of
white, pinkish-purple and blue whilst the flowers of thyme are also small and
pinkish-purple.
It's best to do some research before
selecting a planter for your herbs. For instance, how tall is the herb likely
to grow? If it's tall-growing like fennel or some varieties of rosemary you'll
want a big pot so that your herb won't topple over in strong winds. Also, it
helps if you can find out about the type of roots the herb has. Do they stay
fairly close to the surface of the soil of do they like to go deep?
Additionally, when planting herbs, it's
important to use containers that drain well since herbs don't like to sit in
wet soil. This is where putting a few stones in the bottom of the pots before
adding the compost will be a great help along with ensuring the containers have
their own drainage holes; that is unless you are putting a smaller potted plant
into a larger container rather than putting the plant directly into a large
container.
Beginners to herb gardening might find it
easier to start with plug plants rather than trying to grow herbs from
seed. When planting plug plants use a
quality compost to get your herbs off to a good start. An alternative is to buy
pots of fresh herbs from your local supermarket if you don't live near a garden
centre. Great success can be had with
this kind of herb growing by planting supermarket-bought pots of basil,
coriander and parsley straight into larger pots in the garden or even into a
small garden bed near the back door. Parsley in particular, seems to grow best
in a slightly damp, almost shaded area. With only just a little sun, these
herbs have been seen to flourish right through the summer until early November
provided there have been no early frosts.
Since container plants dry out quickly
especially in hot weather you'll need to ensure they are watered regularly
depending on what each herb prefers. If you are going to group herbs together
in one pot, it's best to put together those that need the same kinds of growing
conditions. You will lose plants if
plants requiring little water are planted with those requiring regular
watering.
One of the many benefits of growing herbs
in containers is that they can be moved around to suit the weather conditions
and the position of the sun. The small to medium size containers can be kept on
wheeled plant holders, which can make moving them easier especially for the
not-so-young. In sub-zero temperatures
container grown herbs can even be brought off the patio or balcony indoors if
there is no heated greenhouse or conservatory available.
Even if you are someone who cooks
infrequently, you can still enjoy the beauty, fragrance and colour of your own
herbs and some herbs like mint, can be used for making refreshing summer
drinks. Most herbs are really easy to grow and maintain, and being a herb
grower is one of the simplest and most satisfying ways of gardening.
Friday, 26 July 2013
Growing & Enjoying Annual Flowers
Nothing links us
more to nature than meandering through a well-tended garden carpeted with
flowers that are a feast for the eyes. Annual flowers provide a rich display
for most of the summer and into the early autumn and many of them are also
suitable for cutting and displaying indoors.
Annuals, in their
numberless colors and shades, arrive at maturity, bloom, produce seed, and die
in one season. Many hardy annuals such as candytuft, phlox drummondii, and the
beautifully scented sweet alyssum, and sweet peas etc., can be sown in August
and September for spring flowering, and require little or no protection from
frost. The seed of hardy annual garden flowers can also be sown thinly outdoors
during March, April, or May in fine soil, covering them slightly as very small
seeds need just a light covering of seed compost over them. Planting small
seeds too deeply will result in many of them being lost. When the plants are
large enough to handle, they need to be thinned out to let them to develop
fully. In this way strong and sturdy plants are produced and their flowering
properties enhanced.
The more tender
half-hardy annuals are best sown in seed trays 2 or 3 in. deep during February
and March, and placed in a greenhouse at a temperature of about 60 degrees. The
seed tray should be nearly filled with equal parts of potting compost and coarse
silver sand, thoroughly mixed, and have holes at the bottom of the tray for
drainage. The seeds need only be sown thinly and evenly over the soil and
covered very lightly.
Very small seeds,
such as lobelia and musk, shouldn't be covered by compost but a sheet of glass
over the seed tray will help them, as it keeps the moisture in the compost from
evaporating too quickly. If watering becomes necessary, care must be taken so
that the seeds are not washed out just as they are developing their tender roots.
As soon as the
young plants appear, remove the glass and place them near the light, where
gentle ventilation can be given to them to prevent long and straggly growth of
their stems. They should then be hardened off gradually, but not planted out
until the weather is favourable i.e. the frosts have passed. Seed can also be
sown in a cold frame in April, or in the open border during May; or the plants
can be raised in the windows of a sitting-room or conservatory.
Very tender
annuals need to be sown in a rather stronger heat than is necessary for
half-hardy varieties. As soon as they are large enough to be moved, they can be
prick them off into small pots, gradually potting them on into larger sizes
until the flowering size is reached.
It's useful to
know in advance of doing any transplanting, that most annual flowers need
plenty of room in which to grow. Most will take kindly to transplanting into
their final flowering spots. Exceptions
include those that have taproots like mignonette, larkspurs and poppies. These
will not respond well to having their roots disturbed.
Annuals provide us
with a wonderful assortment of brilliant flowers: asters, the larkspur, and the
profusely blooming petunias which are ideal for summer hanging baskets, plus
portulaccas, and zinnias to name but a few. And because they can be grown in
almost any type of soil provided it's well-drained, and need only a reasonably
sunny spot to flourish, they are justifiably the most widely grown of all
flowers.
Thursday, 18 July 2013
Building a Cubby House Tee Pee Style
Watch the video via the link attached below where Jason will show you how to
build the kids their very own cubby house for next to nothing. The construction
is dead simple and dirt cheap and best of all this is one cubby house will look
great in your garden. http://bcove.me/k3k5233p
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