Bicycle Garden Plow home made

Worth It - Gardening Tip

Every year I try to plant a few T. acuminata (these from Brent and Beckys) in the front yard. They’re expensive as tulips go—about 4-5 bucks a bulb—and are considered heirloom. Most of the bulb experts seem to think they are an older hybrid, not a wild tulip, but their exact origins are a bit murky. Anna Pavord is a fan; she writes about them as being “spidery and mad.” Brent and Beckys thinks they date to 1813; Old House Gardens sees them as a survivor of the c. 1700s thin-petal tulip craze.

And not only are they expensive, they’re fussy. I put 5 in every year, but for whatever reason, they often fail to emerge. It’s a very exciting event when they do. This year’s are quite tall—I would say about 30”.

Moulin Rouge from Longfield Gardens

Spring does not exist without tulips as far as I’m concerned. Indeed, when winter transitions directly into summer, as it did this year, I need tulips to help me pretend that spring happened.

http://gardenrant.com/2014/05/worth-it.html

"Small Garden Design"

WORDS JERRY COLEBY-WILLIAMS

In the heart of Brisbane lies a magical garden filled with luscious plants and stunning features.

Many would believe that designing a small garden is a simple affair. In reality, the smaller the space the more every centimetre counts. Award-winning garden designer, Phillip O’Malley explains: “When you’re designing a large garden you can see certain elements from a distance. Space allows whimsy. And you can overlook a few weeds. But designing a small space puts you right in the fishbowl. Nothing is hidden. The bones must be strong and everything well-planned.”

*Check out our small garden design gallery*

One garden at Tarragindi, in suburban south Brisbane, bears all the hallmarks of Phillip O’Malley’s beliefs. But there’s much more to it than good design. It’s perfect for a garden-lover and clearly exudes ‘soul’. Eight years ago this 415 square metre property was a garden from hell – hot, exposed and barren. Worse than a car park, this almost all-lawn garden needed lots of regular work to keep it contained.

Garden harmony

We see so many instant garden makeovers we forget that the true test of good design is if it still looks as good three years later. So what went right in this garden? In a word: harmony. There’s a balance between the necessities of practical gardening and the pleasure to be gained by being in it, whatever the season. Well-placed plants have matured without overcrowding each other, and wherever you stand there’s a view, a pattern or a setting to engage the mind and the senses.

Here the whole is truly greater than the sum of the individual parts. The garden is as pleasurable to work in as it is welcoming after a hard day’s work. Constructed features, such as paving and retaining walls, are not only functional and well-built, they’re also stimulating to the eye. The garden has stood the test of time, and developed a soul, something Phillip is determined to imbue in every garden he plans.

Magic and drama

The combined effects of healthy plants and colour, ever-changing patterns of welcome shade and pools of sunlight combine with fragrance and the sound of water to work magic. The pavilion creates an invitingly cool, shady, restful space for entertaining and enjoying the garden whatever the weather, while lawn provides a small space for playful kids – and somewhere to put a wheelbarrow when gardening. But the most enticing feature in this garden has been created using the simplest of materials and design.

White concrete pavers have been laid through the centre of a long, turfed area. Apart from making the garden seem larger, the pavers bring this formal area to life. The same pavers have been laid in a chequerboard fashion creating a dramatic entrance to the oriental-inspired pavilion. Here the pavers are interplanted with low-growing clumping grass, which also act to break up reflected heat and light from intense summer sunshine. The pavers shed rain onto the grass, reducing the need for watering. Together they work to create a vibrant space that glows in cloudy or sunny weather.

Standout plants

All the plants growing at Tarragindi are suited to a frost-free, coastal climate where some shelter is available. And few need much water or fussing over to look great. Plants have been placed together to create a sense of theatre. Swathes of liriope grow beneath clumps of clivia, and the patterned leaves ofCalathea zebrina highlight a rustic bench.

Everywhere contrasts abound: waterlily flowers add a tranquil, cool charm to formal pools, their reflections broken by rippling water. Cordylines with beetroot-coloured leaves add zest and warmth through winter. And the border plants spilling over lawn edges have a softening effect, uniting two distinct garden features.

• Blue ginger (Dichorisandra thyrsiflora) Forming a tight upright clump 1.2m high, blue ginger flowers from summer to autumn in the subtropics. It grows best in semi-shade. Another bonus is it attracts native blue-banded bees.
• Mussaenda (Mussaenda frondosa) In Perth and Sydney it’s autumn-flowering and winter deciduous. In the tropics it’s evergreen, flowering from summer into winter. It needs full sun and compost-rich soil and is suitable for growing in containers.
• Macarthur palm (Ptychosperma macarthurii) This moderately fast-growing, sun-loving, native clumping palm is best suited to coastal subtropical and tropical climates. It looks wonderful in containers and as a feature in lawns with its beautiful pendant bunches of fruit. Water regularly in drought.
• Spider lily (Hymenocallis littoralis) This is a stunning sight in full flower. For best results give this drought-tolerant, clumping lily well-composted soil in either full sun or part shade. It’s expensive to buy, but can be easily propagated each spring.
• Syzygium paniculatum ‘Elite’ This dwarf, native lillypilly is sometimes sold as ‘Aussie Compact’. It has a neat, slender, upright habit, which lends itself to many uses, including hedging, topiary,  containers or as a courtyard tree. It is best suited to warm temperate and subtropical climates.
• Clumping temple grass (Zoysia tenuifolia) With a tufted, mossy appearance, temple grass is a good informal alternative to turf. Sun- and shade-tolerant, it may lose its colour during winter when grown in areas as far south as Sydney. Grow it in swathes to maximise its impact.
• Star fruit (Averrhoa carambola) This decorative tree is usually grown for its refreshingly tart summer fruit. It is deciduous in winter and slowly reaches 9m tall. Its broad canopy provides good shade and its leaves, which fold at night, are curious in their own right.

http://www.homelife.com.au/gardening/beautiful+gardens/small+garden+design,15669

Landscape Design Tips

Design a Showy Flowerbed with These 5 Easy-Care Perennials

Source: http://www.gardendesign.com/

Costa Farms gardening expert, Justin Hancock shares valuable design tips for selecting and planting perennials and ideal companion plants.  Because they come back year after year, require little watering, are long-blooming, and offer a variety of textures, shapes and colors, Hancock says perennials are the backbone of any beautiful garden. He suggests starting with these five beautiful, easy-care perennials to instantly transform any garden.

Shade-Loving Hostas

Have a shady backyard? That doesn’t mean you can’t have a colorful garden! Hostas come in an almost limitless selection of sizes, shapes and colors. In fact, there are so many hosta varieties to choose from that it’s possible to create an entire garden with just this one type of plant. Hostas also show off gorgeous flower spikes in pink, lavender or white, and some even have a sweet fragrance.

Shade-Loving | Zone: 3-10| Bloom Time: Mid to late summer

Companion Plant: Astilbe
Astilbe's greatest attribute is how it will provide contrast in the leaf structure when paired with hostas. Astilbe has a lacy leaf that plays well with the coarse bold hosta leaf.

Design Tip:
Try to mix different varieties of hostas together. The transitions between large, medium, and small varieties provide an intriguing and subtle play of color and texture.  A mix of hostas allows you to stay within the same theme for your garden, yet is more impactful than just a bed full of the same color and variety.

Low-Maintenance RudbeckiaSecond on Hancock’s list is rudbeckia, also known as Black-eyed Susan. It develops wave after wave of cheerful daisy-like blooms from early summer to fall. Most varieties grow around 2 feet tall and are great cut for bouquets. Because rudbeckias are native to the central and eastern parts of the United States, they are also naturally drought and insect resistant.

Sun-Loving |Zone: 3-10| Bloom Time: Late summer to fall

Companion Plant: Aster
Rudbeckia gives a brilliant gold and aster comes in stunning shades of blue and purple. You can’t go wrong combining gold with blue or purple. Plus, aster is fantastic for attracting butterflies.

Design Tip:
The loose and informal look of rudbeckia makes an ideal plant for cottage style gardens. If you don’t want the loose and informal look, then do a mass planting of rudbeckia. The eye will be paying more attention to the bold color and won’t notice the habit as much.

Cheery CoreopsisWith a long bloom time and generally trouble-free nature, coreopsis is an easy-to-grow perennial. It stands up to a little neglect when it comes to water and fertilizer, making it extremely low maintenance. A native prairie plant, this bright sunny-yellow flower is hard to miss even on a dreary day. Most coreopsis grow about 18 inches tall and produce single or double flowers.

Sun-Loving |Zone: 4-9 |Bloom Time: early to late summer

Companion Plant: Salvia
Salvia has an upright, spikey texture and coreopsis is more nicely mounded which creates great interplay in the form. Plus, both are butterfly magnets.

Design Tip:
Because coreopsis is relatively low, it is fun to use at a border as an edging plant.

Sedums with Nectar-Rich Blooms
Another easy-care perennial is sedum. Hancock describes them as the “workhorses of perennials.” Almost impervious to heat, drought, and disease, sedums get bigger and better each year. Most sedums bloom in late summer and fall, but the lush greenery looks healthy all season long. Their nectar-rich blooms are a favorite with butterflies, bees and other pollinators.

Sun-Loving |Zone: 4-9 |Bloom Time: Mid-summer

Companion Plant: Thyme
Another sun-loving ground cover, Thyme has fine, pretty leaves which contrast nicely with the bolder, fleshier leaf of sedum. Both are great for creating a carpet of color.

Design Tip:
Sedums perform well in rock gardens and are ideal for softening hot, dry spaces. For a great effect, plant creeping varieties in rock walls where they can cascade down.

Butterfly-Attracting Coneflower
Coneflower, also called Echinacea, is a favorite with the butterflies. Choose from double-and triple-flowering varieties and colors that include white, raspberry, orange and yellow. Echinacea generally grow 3 feet tall and bloom from early summer through fall. They also make excellent cut flowers.

Sun-Loving |Zone: 3-8 |Bloom Time: Midsummer thru late summer

Companion Plant: Russian Sage
Also heat and drought tolerant, Russian sage’s silvery foliage make a nice backdrop to pink and purple blooms. Because it is a late summer/fall bloomer, you can extend the season of your flowerbed by enjoying two shows of color as the coneflower and the Russian sage will bloom one after the other.

Design Tip:
Because coneflower does not have the prettiest foliage, combine it with bulkier plants to help hide the leaves so the flowers rise up.

Burke's Backyard, Adding Organic Matter to Soil

Adding Organic Matter to Soil

Photo: www.earthrenew.com

Source: http://www.burkesbackyard.com.au

The worst problem facing gardeners in Australia today is that when soils dry out, they can become water repellent, or hydrophobic. When this happens, water just runs off instead of soaking into the soil. Don showed an example of a water repellent soil and explained how to beat this problem.

What causes hydrophobia?

Hydrophobia usually occurs in sandy soils and often it is caused by mulches. When uncomposted mulch sits on the surface of the ground, waxy, oily material leaves that mulch as it breaks down and coats each individual grain in the soil. When the soil dries out and you try to rewet it, the waxy, oily coating on the grains won't let the water back in and the soil stays dry.

If you took that same mulch and put it into a compost heap, micro-organisms such as bacteria and fungi would break down the waxy and oily material along with the organic matter. As well, the remnants of organic matter that you get at the end of composting actually aid the soil to form tiny little cracks that allow water to penetrate - drying out is never really an issue and the soil always rewets. So organic material used as a mulch causes the problem, but solves the problem when used as a compost.

Fixing a water repellent soil

1. Don dug some highly composted material into the hydrophobic soil. This will cause an explosion in the population of microbes in the soil. Microbes produce sticky secretions and humus, bridging the gaps between mineral particles or groups of mineral particles and binding them into crumbs, or aggregates.

2. After planting out the area with drought-hardy plants such as kangaroo paws, Don applied a mulch of less mature compost, to continue the food supply to the micro-organisms.

3. Finally, Wettasoil was applied using a hose end applicator. (Note:wetting agents only work on sandy soils. They are unlikely to improve heavier soils.) Don recommended applying a wetting agent to problem areas two to four times a year, during dry periods.

How to Plant a Tree: Planting Flowering Trees, Tree Shrubs & More

Grow up Hydrogarden

Best Places to Plant Your Hydrogarden

Photo: servicemagic

Source: http://goarticles.com/

Unlike many other commercial hydroponic systems, the Grow Up Hydrogarden can be used both indoors and outdoors and fits in just 4 square feet of space. It is ideal for the green-conscious apartment dweller that wants to grow 20 different vegetables, fruits, herbs and flowers year-round.

The Hydrogarden can be used to amplify your outdoor oasis, or simply serve as a nice addition to your living space. If you’re the type of person who can’t commit, Grow Up can easily be moved around to fit your evolving decorative tastes. To help you get started, here are a few places you can stage your Grow Up Hydrogarden.

Backyard Scenery
Hydroponic Gardening Kit, Hydroponic GardenThe most common place to put your hydroponic garden is in the backyard. Before seeking out just any random spot, consider incorporating the Grow Up into your outdoor décor. Think of it as more than just a garden; it’s a statement piece that will spark conversation with guests. On the patio, deck, or just around your pool, a hydroponic garden will help add to your outdoor décor.

For those with multiple Hydrogardens, play around with placement in different areas or arranging the Grow Ups based on the colors of what is planted in each. If you have a small yard that has a traditional garden, position your Grow Up alongside it to grow vertically.

Since outdoor space is limited for apartment dwellers, placement is much simpler. Just find a sunny spot on your balcony, patio or roof top deck near a plug or, consider planting your hydrogarden system indoors by simply adding an indoor growing light.

Garden Indoors
Forget fake plants with plastic leaves. The Grow Up Hydrogarden makes for great indoor décor. Place it in your sunroom to add instant vibrancy. The foyer is also a great location for your Hydroponic garden and serves as a nice introduction to your home.

If you want easy access to your fruits and vegetables, consider adding a Hydrogarden to your kitchen. There’s nothing better than being able to pick your homegrown crops directly from the source and enjoy them on the spot.

Have a spare bedroom or office you’re not sure what to do with? Use it for your Grow Up and add life to an otherwise lifeless room.

Get Creative
Don’t limit yourself to the typical garden. Every Hydrogarden owner is unique so how you present it should be too. Looking to liven up your office? Make the Grow Up Hydrogarden your newest cubicle mate. There are no limits to where your Hydroponic garden can go, as long as it gets plenty of sunlight and there is electrical outlet readily available.

Prepare Your Summer Garden in May

Photo: mhakerscustomhomes

Source: http://ezinearticles.com/

May usually brings out the best weather for gardening in Southern California-not too hot or too cold-just right to begin planting vegetables and flowers that will reach their peak in summer.

Thin Out Fruit: By now, many fruit trees are beginning to bear small fruit. Thin the smaller or excess fruit so the stronger fruit will have the nutrients to grow. This is especially important for younger trees

Maintain an Early Morning Watering Schedule: water your garden during morning hours. Watering at night can cause fungus to grow in moist areas. By watering in the early morning, your garden will be sufficiently dry by the time the sun warms up your plants and lawn, but moist enough to offset the heat of the day.

Use Mulch: Mulch absorbs water, reduces erosion and keeps weeds in check throughout the year and especially during the growing season. Its value dissipates with time, however, so maintain about three inches of fresh mulch around plants and in areas where weeds are a problem.

May is The Ideal Month for Planting Almost Any Flower: Plant warm season annuals in May such as begonia, chrysanthemum, geranium, marigold, petunia and verbena. While annuals come and go, perennials will bring backyard enjoyment for years to come. Perennials to plant now include African daisy, delphinium, fuchsia and lavender.

Naturally Reduce Pests: Spring attracts bad bugs to the garden. While it may be tempting to buy a pesticide to rid your garden of these bugs, there are plenty of all-natural options. For example, ladybugs can control infestations of aphids (small round bugs that feed in colonies on vegetable gardens, roses and other plants). To control snails, put boards around your garden. The snails will be drawn to their shade to avoid the hot sun. Pick up the board, pluck off the snails and put them in the trash.

Aerate and Dethatch Warm Season Lawns: warm-season lawns need attention during May. Aerate and dethatch these lawns so water can easily penetrate to the roots. Apply a light layer of lawn topping to keep in moisture and reduce water usage.

Plant Herbs: If you love to use fresh herbs in your meals, an herb garden is almost mandatory. The cost to purchase an herb plant and keep it watered is much less than buying expensive cut herbs at the grocery store. Herbs to plant now are basil, chives, cilantro, dill, fennel, mint, oregano, parsley, rosemary, sage, tarragon and thyme.

Plant Something Exotic: Lemons, oranges, peaches and plums are the mainstay of many Southern California backyards. Try something new this year by planting bananas, pineapples, guava, mango and other subtropical fruit. Check with your local nursery to see what will grow best in your climate zone.

How to Trim Shrubs and Prune Hedges - Do It Yourself

The Art of Pruning - The Basics

Photo: behnkes

Source: http://ezinearticles.com/

There are many reasons why one needs to prune. Pruning keeps the plants within their bounds and promotes stronger stems. It removes damaged or diseased stems and it encourages flower growth. It also is used to train plants into a desired shape. Before you start pruning it is essential that you have the correct tools ready. Firstly you need to protect your hands, so a pair of strong gloves is needed. Then you need to have a narrow bladed pruning saw, a pair of long handled loppers and a pair of sharp secateurs. Now you are ready to begin.

Begin with the basics. First cut back any diseased or damaged branches. Cut back to the undamaged and health branches. If there are two branches that are crossing, cut the most awkwardly placed branch back to the main stem. If there are any weak branches, cut them right down to the base. Pruning to preserve the shape of the tree or shrub or if you are want to promote growth, then the pruning is done between the buds on the stems. If the buds are positioned opposite each other on the stem, make a clean horizontal cut just above them, about 1 cm. If the buds are placed alternately you should angle the cut, starting on the opposite side of the stem and slanting upwards so the top of the cut is about 1 cm above the bud on the other side. Remember that if you want to influence the shape of the tree or shrub you will need to prune back to two or more buds, as the new branch will grow in the direction the bud you prune to, is facing. For example, if a plant is growing over the path or paving, try to prune away from the path or paving, while if possible, not to spoil the plants overall shape.

Knowing when to prune which plants is important. There are shrubs that flower on the current year's growth. These are pruned in early spring which promotes further flowering and growth later in the season. Other shrubs flower on a one year old wood and flower early in spring. These are cut back as soon as their flowers have faded. This ensures flowering the following season. Any trimming of shrubs that produce their flowers on short growths which extend from the main branch should be done in late spring, once the flowering has finished.

Keep an eye out for shrubs with variegated leaves. They sometimes produce a stem with plain green leaves. This must be cut right back. These shoots grow more vigorously than those with variegated leaves and if left will take over the plant. Give a little of your time to pruning and the garden will reward you with beauty.

Pruning & Controlling a Climbing Rose

How To Start A Bonsai Tree

Photo: nerdapproved

Source: http://ezinearticles.com/

There are many ways to start a bonsai that all end with the same result. In reality, you have the option to buy a bonsai tree in different stages. A tree starts out as a tree seed that you can purchase online. Many people market bonsai tree seeds, but they are just ordinary seeds of trees commonly used for bonsai. After the tree has sprouted, it is known as a tree seedling. From this stage, they are watered, fertilized, and cared for over the course of a few years. After the tree has grown with minimal bonsai training for some time, they are sold as "pre-bonsai." These are trees that have been kept compact for bonsai training, but have not been trained for a specific shape or style. These trees are for buyers that want to experience the training aspects but don't want to wait for the seed to grow. After the bonsai have been trained into a shape and style, they are then sold as a bonsai. These trees require mostly maintenance pruning to help them maintain size. After the tree has been aged well as a bonsai, they are commonly sold as "specimen bonsai." These are gorgeous bonsai that are very old and well trained, but buying these trees typically comes at a steep price.

Bonsai Tree Seeds

As I mentioned before, these are just ordinary tree seeds marketed to bonsai growers. Growing bonsai from seeds is the longest route to having your own bonsai. We believe that it is also the most rewarding, because you get to see every step of the way. When growing a bonsai from seed, you need to consider what species you want to grow. If you choose an outdoor tree, then you need to consider "stratification time." If the species you pick requires a winter period to be dormant, then the seed will need this in order to sprout. This process, where we typically place the seed in soil or sphagnum moss in the fridge to simulate winter, is called stratifying the seed. You can also plant the seeds outdoors during the fall and let them be, but you will have a much lower success rate this way. After this process, the seed can be planted in soil for growth. Allow the recommended time for seed to sprout, watering as needed without going overboard. Water when the top of the soil looks dry, and use a humidity dome if possible. Once your seed sprouts, we recommend that you spray it with some antifungal spray to increase survival odds. Continue to water and transplant to a larger container after you see your first set of "true leaves." Let your bonsai grow as normal, following our basic guide for your species, until it becomes a pre-bonsai.

Pre-bonsai

You can grow your seeds into pre-bonsai, or skip that step and purchase a tree at this stage. This is where training and pruning techniques will come into effect. At this stage, you will need to look at your trees natural progression and decide what style you want to train your bonsai. Use our guide, with pictures, to see what guide best suits the way your tree is already growing. From here, your will need to trim the leaves and branches to achieve the desired style. You may also need to learn how to wire a bonsai. All this information can be found in our bonsai styling guide. The key is to remember that your bonsai is not complete when you get to the step with a pair of scissors. This process might take more than one growing season to achieve correctly, and without harming the plant. Some trees take heavy pruning well, but others need to be pruned in steps. After this long process, your will have a full bonsai tree.

Bonsai

This is how most people come across a bonsai tree. At this stage, the tree is almost fully trained and already has a basic bonsai style. We will still need to trim this tree as new growth appears to maintain its shape. Pruning back large growth will force new smaller branches and leaves to grow in close to the tree. This can help improve the tapered appearance of your tree over time. The key to this stage of your bonsai's existence is to keep it alive and maintain its appearance. If your tree becomes very old, it could be considered a specimen bonsai. Specimen bonsai are frequently bought and sold for large amounts of money.

Better Homes and Gardens - Gardening: small space veggie garden

Better Homes and Gardens - Gardening: garden edging

Contemporary Garden Ideas - Landcaping Pictures Gallery

'Fred Hollows Vision' Rose

Source: http://www.burkesbackyard.com.au

A new rose has come on to the market to mark the life and work of the late Fred Hollows, the Australian eye surgeon who worked to eradicate cataract blindness.

Les Stratford of Stratford's Wholesale Nursery at Oakville in New South Wales found this rose in 1994 and decided to name it 'Fred Hollows Vision' to honour Fred's tireless work. Thirty cents from the sale of every rose will be donated to The Fred Hollows Foundation to help doctors carry on Fred's work.

Description

'Fred Hollows Vision' is a white sport of the 'Mary Mackillop' rose and has been named 1998 Rose of the Year by The Rose and Fruit Tree Group. This compact, bushy rose has white flowers over a long period from spring to autumn. It is ideal for planting in pots, garden beds or as an informal hedge as it reaches around 1m (3') tall.

'Fred Hollows Vision' will grow in all but the most tropical parts of Australia (see climate map).

Availability

'Fred Hollows Vision' will be available in flower at some garden centres and chain-stores in NSW from March 1998. Winter plants (barerooted bushes) will be available around Australia from May but can be ordered now.

Some nurseries which have this rose in stock now include: Altra Nursery, Peakhurst. Phone: (02) 9153 5176
Corrimal Garden Centre, Corrimal. Phone: (02) 4283 5586
Highland Rose Nursery, Dural. Phone: (02) 9651 1243
Wayne's Home and Garden, North Richmond. Phone: (02) 4571 2036

Roses in 20 cm (8") pots cost from $14.50 to $18.

The Fred Hollows Foundation

For further information about The Fred Hollows Foundation visit www.hollows.org or phone 1800 352 352.

Donations to The Fred Hollows Foundation may be made on a 24 hour donation line: 1800 352 352.

Address: The Fred Hollows Foundation, Locked Bag 100, Rosebery, NSW, 1445.

Did you know?

The Foundation will celebrate its 10th anniversary in September 2002. Since its launch in 1992 the Foundation and its local partners have restored sight to nearly 1 milllion people and trained over 750 local doctors to perform modern cataract surgery.

Other roses

The following roses were also mentioned on 'Burke's Backyard':

• 'Artistry' - Coral orange flowers. Lightly fragrant. 1998 introduction.
• 'City of Goulburn' - A yellow rose with gold and copper tones. Ruffled petals.
• 'City of Newcastle' - Clear red flowers. Fragrant.
• 'Karen Blixen' - A pure white rose with just a hint of pale green. Strong fragrance.
• 'Pink Bloss' - A miniature rose with salmon pink flowers. 1998 introduction.
• 'Pink Iceberg' - A blush pink. A sport of the widely grown white 'Iceberg'. (May still produce the odd white flower.)
• 'Rose of Narromine' - Pale apricot edged with magenta pink. Beautiful perfume.
• 'St Patrick' - A goldish yellow rose with a hint of pink when mature. As a young rose it has an interesting green tone.
• 'St Therese de Lisieux' - An almost pure white rose with a slight hint of shell pink edging.

Availability: These roses were supplied by Swane's Nursery at Dural. Look for them at your local nursery. Bare-rooted roses can be ordered for planting in winter either from Swane's (mail-order) or directly from your local nursery. Phone: (02) 9651 1322. Fax: (02) 9651 2146.

For more information or to receive a catalogue write to:

Reply Paid AAA 46
Swane's Nursery
PO Box 29
Dural NSW 2158

Swane's is at 490 Galston Road, Dural. Open seven days a week, 8am-5pm (9am-5pm weekends). Closed Good Friday and Christmas Day.

Japanese Garden "Before & After" . Lee's Oriental Landscape Art

My Front yard complete landscape makeover!

Container Gardening Tips & Plans : Planting a Container Garden: Home Gardening Tips, Ideas & Advice

Boxed In - Hedging

Source: www.channel4.com/4homes

Use box hedging with contrasting foliage to create a subtly formal look.

Gardening Tips - Tomato Plants

The top 10 herbs you need in your garden

Source: au.lifestyle.yahoo.com/better-homes-gardens

It makes sense to plant what your family uses most in terms of herbs. That is the basis for my top 10 herbs.

1. Basil 

This can be thrown into just about anything from salads to the cooking pot. It provides a beautiful smell to the kitchen and adds amazing flavour to so many dishes. I just wish it grew all year round. It will start to die off around autumn after it flowers so cut the flowers off as they appear to get the most out of its growing season, this will also help the pant keep its flavour. There is nothing better than a big bunch of fresh pesto made with the basil from your garden.

2. Thyme 

Is easy to grow and goes well with tomato dishes as well as some seafood dishes. It has a beautiful scent so take some cuttings and tie them into a bunch and hang them somewhere in the kitchen to provide a fresh smell to that space.

3. Rosemary 

Is a fantastic plant to have in the garden because you can take from it all year round and it goes with so many foods. In winter when the selection of fresh herbs in the garden is reduced, it is great to be able to put some fresh Rosemary in your Sunday roast to enhance the flavour provide some freshness to your dish. In a way it keeps you warm through winter…metaphorically speaking.

4. Parsley

Is great because it is one of the few herbs that doesn’t mind a bit of shade and grows well in a pot so it can be moved around and kept in that corner where nothing else does that well. This in theory should be at the top of my list because it can be used in so many ways and in so many dishes. You could just about sprinkle some parsley on everything that you present.

5. Mint

Not only is fantastic to have on hand for summer cocktails but it also goes well in some stir fry and fish dishes mixed with other herbs. It likes to grow in part shade with a fair bit of water. I have seen in thrive in shaded areas under dripping taps. Keep it confined in a pot as it will want to spread throughout the garden.

6. Oregano

Think of an Italian dish with tomatoes and oregano will most likely be a good accompaniment. It grows well in soil with good drainage. Harvest it regularly to keep it dense and prevent it from going woody, this will also promote new growth.

7. Chives 

Chives are relatively easy to grow in a sunny aspect. They will die off over Winter but should come back the next growing season. They add flavour to many dishes including eggs and if you are out of onions, chives can make a good substitute.

8. Coriander

I get mixed reports with this one. Some people can’t kill it and some can’t grow it. It grows well kept moist and in part shade. It grow well from seed also. Coriander is a fantastic flavour enhancer so having it on hand through the summer months is really handy, especially considering it is about $2.50 per bunch in the supermarkets.

9. Lemon Myrtle 

Is a wonderful Australian plant that can be used in cooking or in teas. Its leaf has the most amazing scent. I give it to my kids to keep in their pockets and smell throughout the day. They love it.

10. Curry Plant 
I am cheating a little bit with this one because the curry plant is rarely if ever used in cooking. It does smell like curry so it has a beautiful scent but in terms of flavour it is pretty mild. I use it purely for its aesthetic appeal. Its silver grey foliage adds a different colour to enhance the look of my herb garden and it can be trimmed and mounded and contained in whichever way you wish to create a contrast in textures.

Matt Leacy, Founder & Landscape Designer, LANDART offer complete project management of your outdoor space – from design and construction through to on-doing maintenance and horticulture advice- as well as tailored packages to suit individual needs. With an emphasis on innovative design, quality materials and professional service, our friendly, well-presented team create beautiful, well-crafted gardens that both inspire and impress. We are One Team – designer, building and sustaining beautiful spaces with clear and concise communications with all of our clients.

Spring Into Spring With Gardening Tips

How to Prep Your Lawn and Garden for Autumn

Source: http://www.copyrightfreecontent.com/

As autumn colors set in this season, make sure your all-important home and garden upkeep checklist is ready.

Although the lawn is often overlooked during the fall, it’s actually the perfect time to make sure everything is organized before the harsher winter elements take hold. Paul James, host of HGTV’s “Gardening by the Yard,” advises homeowners to start early – approximately six weeks before the first good freeze.

Here is a list of some of the tasks and items you should add to your fall checklist this year:

•    Maintain the landscape. Tidy up the lawn, flowerbeds, bushes, gardens, etc. Remove unsightly foliage, dead stems, piles of leaves and other debris. Fluff your mulch with a rake so water can seep into the subsoil.

•    Plant fall vegetables. Cool-season vegetable gardens can flourish with the right plants – lettuce, greens, carrots, broccoli, cauliflower, turnips, potatoes and loads more. Imagine all the hearty stews and delicious soups you could make from scratch.

•    Keep muscles relaxed, and stay hydrated. Don’t underestimate the fall sun. Summer may be over, but hours of gardening in the sun can still leave you exhausted, strained and parched. Remember to drink plenty of fluids, take breaks and stretch your muscles. If you suffer from backaches and muscle strains, keep some relief like Absorbine Jr. (www.absorbinejr.com) on hand. The natural menthol in Absorbine Jr. helps relieve muscle and back pain to make it a must-have for yard work. Its herbal ingredients also help provide relief from sunburn and gnat and other insect bites.

•    Make room for indoor plants. Your potted or container plants won’t survive the winter outside, so it’s time to make room indoors for tropical plants, herbs and succulents. Potted perennials can be transplanted into a garden after trimming the roots and some top growth.

•    Clean garage, shed or outbuildings. Once you organize your storage space, you can neatly put away all of your summer tools or patio furniture. Plus, your newly emptied planters will have a home next to all the other stuff families accumulate.