Adding Organic Matter to Soil

Photo: www.earthrenew.com

Source: http://www.burkesbackyard.com.au

The worst problem facing gardeners in Australia today is that when soils dry out, they can become water repellent, or hydrophobic. When this happens, water just runs off instead of soaking into the soil. Don showed an example of a water repellent soil and explained how to beat this problem.

What causes hydrophobia?

Hydrophobia usually occurs in sandy soils and often it is caused by mulches. When uncomposted mulch sits on the surface of the ground, waxy, oily material leaves that mulch as it breaks down and coats each individual grain in the soil. When the soil dries out and you try to rewet it, the waxy, oily coating on the grains won't let the water back in and the soil stays dry.

If you took that same mulch and put it into a compost heap, micro-organisms such as bacteria and fungi would break down the waxy and oily material along with the organic matter. As well, the remnants of organic matter that you get at the end of composting actually aid the soil to form tiny little cracks that allow water to penetrate - drying out is never really an issue and the soil always rewets. So organic material used as a mulch causes the problem, but solves the problem when used as a compost.

Fixing a water repellent soil

1. Don dug some highly composted material into the hydrophobic soil. This will cause an explosion in the population of microbes in the soil. Microbes produce sticky secretions and humus, bridging the gaps between mineral particles or groups of mineral particles and binding them into crumbs, or aggregates.

2. After planting out the area with drought-hardy plants such as kangaroo paws, Don applied a mulch of less mature compost, to continue the food supply to the micro-organisms.

3. Finally, Wettasoil was applied using a hose end applicator. (Note:wetting agents only work on sandy soils. They are unlikely to improve heavier soils.) Don recommended applying a wetting agent to problem areas two to four times a year, during dry periods.

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Grow up Hydrogarden

Best Places to Plant Your Hydrogarden

Photo: servicemagic

Source: http://goarticles.com/

Unlike many other commercial hydroponic systems, the Grow Up Hydrogarden can be used both indoors and outdoors and fits in just 4 square feet of space. It is ideal for the green-conscious apartment dweller that wants to grow 20 different vegetables, fruits, herbs and flowers year-round.

The Hydrogarden can be used to amplify your outdoor oasis, or simply serve as a nice addition to your living space. If you’re the type of person who can’t commit, Grow Up can easily be moved around to fit your evolving decorative tastes. To help you get started, here are a few places you can stage your Grow Up Hydrogarden.

Backyard Scenery
Hydroponic Gardening Kit, Hydroponic GardenThe most common place to put your hydroponic garden is in the backyard. Before seeking out just any random spot, consider incorporating the Grow Up into your outdoor décor. Think of it as more than just a garden; it’s a statement piece that will spark conversation with guests. On the patio, deck, or just around your pool, a hydroponic garden will help add to your outdoor décor.

For those with multiple Hydrogardens, play around with placement in different areas or arranging the Grow Ups based on the colors of what is planted in each. If you have a small yard that has a traditional garden, position your Grow Up alongside it to grow vertically.

Since outdoor space is limited for apartment dwellers, placement is much simpler. Just find a sunny spot on your balcony, patio or roof top deck near a plug or, consider planting your hydrogarden system indoors by simply adding an indoor growing light.

Garden Indoors
Forget fake plants with plastic leaves. The Grow Up Hydrogarden makes for great indoor décor. Place it in your sunroom to add instant vibrancy. The foyer is also a great location for your Hydroponic garden and serves as a nice introduction to your home.

If you want easy access to your fruits and vegetables, consider adding a Hydrogarden to your kitchen. There’s nothing better than being able to pick your homegrown crops directly from the source and enjoy them on the spot.

Have a spare bedroom or office you’re not sure what to do with? Use it for your Grow Up and add life to an otherwise lifeless room.

Get Creative
Don’t limit yourself to the typical garden. Every Hydrogarden owner is unique so how you present it should be too. Looking to liven up your office? Make the Grow Up Hydrogarden your newest cubicle mate. There are no limits to where your Hydroponic garden can go, as long as it gets plenty of sunlight and there is electrical outlet readily available.

Prepare Your Summer Garden in May

Photo: mhakerscustomhomes

Source: http://ezinearticles.com/

May usually brings out the best weather for gardening in Southern California-not too hot or too cold-just right to begin planting vegetables and flowers that will reach their peak in summer.

Thin Out Fruit: By now, many fruit trees are beginning to bear small fruit. Thin the smaller or excess fruit so the stronger fruit will have the nutrients to grow. This is especially important for younger trees

Maintain an Early Morning Watering Schedule: water your garden during morning hours. Watering at night can cause fungus to grow in moist areas. By watering in the early morning, your garden will be sufficiently dry by the time the sun warms up your plants and lawn, but moist enough to offset the heat of the day.

Use Mulch: Mulch absorbs water, reduces erosion and keeps weeds in check throughout the year and especially during the growing season. Its value dissipates with time, however, so maintain about three inches of fresh mulch around plants and in areas where weeds are a problem.

May is The Ideal Month for Planting Almost Any Flower: Plant warm season annuals in May such as begonia, chrysanthemum, geranium, marigold, petunia and verbena. While annuals come and go, perennials will bring backyard enjoyment for years to come. Perennials to plant now include African daisy, delphinium, fuchsia and lavender.

Naturally Reduce Pests: Spring attracts bad bugs to the garden. While it may be tempting to buy a pesticide to rid your garden of these bugs, there are plenty of all-natural options. For example, ladybugs can control infestations of aphids (small round bugs that feed in colonies on vegetable gardens, roses and other plants). To control snails, put boards around your garden. The snails will be drawn to their shade to avoid the hot sun. Pick up the board, pluck off the snails and put them in the trash.

Aerate and Dethatch Warm Season Lawns: warm-season lawns need attention during May. Aerate and dethatch these lawns so water can easily penetrate to the roots. Apply a light layer of lawn topping to keep in moisture and reduce water usage.

Plant Herbs: If you love to use fresh herbs in your meals, an herb garden is almost mandatory. The cost to purchase an herb plant and keep it watered is much less than buying expensive cut herbs at the grocery store. Herbs to plant now are basil, chives, cilantro, dill, fennel, mint, oregano, parsley, rosemary, sage, tarragon and thyme.

Plant Something Exotic: Lemons, oranges, peaches and plums are the mainstay of many Southern California backyards. Try something new this year by planting bananas, pineapples, guava, mango and other subtropical fruit. Check with your local nursery to see what will grow best in your climate zone.

How to Trim Shrubs and Prune Hedges - Do It Yourself

The Art of Pruning - The Basics

Photo: behnkes

Source: http://ezinearticles.com/

There are many reasons why one needs to prune. Pruning keeps the plants within their bounds and promotes stronger stems. It removes damaged or diseased stems and it encourages flower growth. It also is used to train plants into a desired shape. Before you start pruning it is essential that you have the correct tools ready. Firstly you need to protect your hands, so a pair of strong gloves is needed. Then you need to have a narrow bladed pruning saw, a pair of long handled loppers and a pair of sharp secateurs. Now you are ready to begin.

Begin with the basics. First cut back any diseased or damaged branches. Cut back to the undamaged and health branches. If there are two branches that are crossing, cut the most awkwardly placed branch back to the main stem. If there are any weak branches, cut them right down to the base. Pruning to preserve the shape of the tree or shrub or if you are want to promote growth, then the pruning is done between the buds on the stems. If the buds are positioned opposite each other on the stem, make a clean horizontal cut just above them, about 1 cm. If the buds are placed alternately you should angle the cut, starting on the opposite side of the stem and slanting upwards so the top of the cut is about 1 cm above the bud on the other side. Remember that if you want to influence the shape of the tree or shrub you will need to prune back to two or more buds, as the new branch will grow in the direction the bud you prune to, is facing. For example, if a plant is growing over the path or paving, try to prune away from the path or paving, while if possible, not to spoil the plants overall shape.

Knowing when to prune which plants is important. There are shrubs that flower on the current year's growth. These are pruned in early spring which promotes further flowering and growth later in the season. Other shrubs flower on a one year old wood and flower early in spring. These are cut back as soon as their flowers have faded. This ensures flowering the following season. Any trimming of shrubs that produce their flowers on short growths which extend from the main branch should be done in late spring, once the flowering has finished.

Keep an eye out for shrubs with variegated leaves. They sometimes produce a stem with plain green leaves. This must be cut right back. These shoots grow more vigorously than those with variegated leaves and if left will take over the plant. Give a little of your time to pruning and the garden will reward you with beauty.

Pruning & Controlling a Climbing Rose

How To Start A Bonsai Tree

Photo: nerdapproved

Source: http://ezinearticles.com/

There are many ways to start a bonsai that all end with the same result. In reality, you have the option to buy a bonsai tree in different stages. A tree starts out as a tree seed that you can purchase online. Many people market bonsai tree seeds, but they are just ordinary seeds of trees commonly used for bonsai. After the tree has sprouted, it is known as a tree seedling. From this stage, they are watered, fertilized, and cared for over the course of a few years. After the tree has grown with minimal bonsai training for some time, they are sold as "pre-bonsai." These are trees that have been kept compact for bonsai training, but have not been trained for a specific shape or style. These trees are for buyers that want to experience the training aspects but don't want to wait for the seed to grow. After the bonsai have been trained into a shape and style, they are then sold as a bonsai. These trees require mostly maintenance pruning to help them maintain size. After the tree has been aged well as a bonsai, they are commonly sold as "specimen bonsai." These are gorgeous bonsai that are very old and well trained, but buying these trees typically comes at a steep price.

Bonsai Tree Seeds

As I mentioned before, these are just ordinary tree seeds marketed to bonsai growers. Growing bonsai from seeds is the longest route to having your own bonsai. We believe that it is also the most rewarding, because you get to see every step of the way. When growing a bonsai from seed, you need to consider what species you want to grow. If you choose an outdoor tree, then you need to consider "stratification time." If the species you pick requires a winter period to be dormant, then the seed will need this in order to sprout. This process, where we typically place the seed in soil or sphagnum moss in the fridge to simulate winter, is called stratifying the seed. You can also plant the seeds outdoors during the fall and let them be, but you will have a much lower success rate this way. After this process, the seed can be planted in soil for growth. Allow the recommended time for seed to sprout, watering as needed without going overboard. Water when the top of the soil looks dry, and use a humidity dome if possible. Once your seed sprouts, we recommend that you spray it with some antifungal spray to increase survival odds. Continue to water and transplant to a larger container after you see your first set of "true leaves." Let your bonsai grow as normal, following our basic guide for your species, until it becomes a pre-bonsai.

Pre-bonsai

You can grow your seeds into pre-bonsai, or skip that step and purchase a tree at this stage. This is where training and pruning techniques will come into effect. At this stage, you will need to look at your trees natural progression and decide what style you want to train your bonsai. Use our guide, with pictures, to see what guide best suits the way your tree is already growing. From here, your will need to trim the leaves and branches to achieve the desired style. You may also need to learn how to wire a bonsai. All this information can be found in our bonsai styling guide. The key is to remember that your bonsai is not complete when you get to the step with a pair of scissors. This process might take more than one growing season to achieve correctly, and without harming the plant. Some trees take heavy pruning well, but others need to be pruned in steps. After this long process, your will have a full bonsai tree.

Bonsai

This is how most people come across a bonsai tree. At this stage, the tree is almost fully trained and already has a basic bonsai style. We will still need to trim this tree as new growth appears to maintain its shape. Pruning back large growth will force new smaller branches and leaves to grow in close to the tree. This can help improve the tapered appearance of your tree over time. The key to this stage of your bonsai's existence is to keep it alive and maintain its appearance. If your tree becomes very old, it could be considered a specimen bonsai. Specimen bonsai are frequently bought and sold for large amounts of money.

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